In Spain, everybody has a friend who has had their phone stolen in Barcelona. If you’ve spent any time in the city, you’ll probably know someone who’s been harassed while walking down Las Ramblas or been followed through El Raval. Petty crime happens in every city, but it does seem to happen quite often in this one.
With fantasies of sandy Mediterranean shores and a cityscape adorned with Gaudí masterpieces, I didn’t complain when my university sent me to study in Catalonia’s capital. Moving abroad alone can be daunting, especially when you’re only told cautionary tales instead of recommendations. But when I arrived in the city, the warm welcome I received drowned out the ominous whispers.
For me, Barcelona became an adventure. Studying at the university meant learning Catalan and, when I fumbled, I was met with encouragement rather than hostility. As I explored tapas bars and quaint bakeries, the locals were happy to help me practice my languages. People wanted more than just small talk and instead plied me with tips on how to appreciate their culture. The city mirrored its inhabitants: lively, inclusive and effortlessly cool.
Weekends were spent hiking in the Pyrenees, watching my new friends practice castells, a Catalan tradition of building human towers, or trekking up to the famous bunkers to watch the city lights. I felt safe as a woman travelling solo, never struggled to find a great meal as a vegetarian and was blown away by the LGBT+ Pride celebrations. As twee as it might sound, life felt like a dream.
But casting shadows over my rose-tinted view of Barcelona was the city’s unspoken legacy. In just a few months, I’d already heard countless horror stories. A friend had her necklace ripped off by a thief on a passing motorbike. Another was followed home one night and held at knifepoint for his wallet, only to be cornered minutes later by another thief who knocked him unconscious and took his phone.
After countless warnings, I was ultra-paranoid. I never walked home alone after dark. I clutched my phone tight with both hands when taking photos and wore my rucksack on my front. But one can never be prepared for everything…
